The Rich and Delicious History of Cheesecake

While cheesecake may seem as American as, well, apple pie, and also as Jewish as the New York deli, the truth is that cheesecake has been around for nearly 3,000 years and has traveled the world in many different forms, from savory to sweet pies, and pancakes to pastries, tarts to mousse.

What Is a Cheesecake?

A cheesecake is a type of baked custard dessert characterized by a rich and creamy filling, usually made with creamy cheese, eggs, sugar, and flavorings such as vanilla or lemon juice, set on a crust, often made from crushed cookies or graham crackers and typically baked. While it’s called cheesecake, it’s really a form of pie. Cheesecakes can vary in texture from light and fluffy to dense and creamy, depending on the ingredients and baking methods used. They can also feature a variety of toppings including fruit compotes, chocolate ganache, or whipped cream.

The Ancient Beginnings of Cheesecake

The history of cheesecake dates back thousands of years and spans various cultures, making it a dessert with a rich and diverse heritage.

Ancient Beginnings

When some think of cheesecake they think of the United States, and in particular New York, however, the history of cheesecake dates back thousands of years (some say up to 4,000 years ago), with its origins going back to ancient Greece.

The earliest known mention of “cheesecake” (plakous meaning “flatmass”) dates back to ancient Greece. It is believed to have originated on the Greek island of Samos. Physical anthropologists have unearthed molds there dating back to around 2,000 B.C. While cheese and cheese-related products likely existed for millennia before this discovery, records for periods earlier than this delve into prehistory before the advent of written language, leaving much to speculation.

Was Cheesecake the “Breakfast of Champions?”

In ancient Greece, cheesecake held a revered status as a source of energy, evidenced by its provision to athletes during the inaugural Olympic Games in 776 B.C. Additionally, Greek newlyweds often celebrated their nuptials with cheesecake, which was fashioned from basic ingredients such as flour, wheat, honey, and cheese, pounded into patties, then cooked on an earthenware griddle.

The First Written Cheesecake Recipe

The Greek philosopher and historian Athenaeus is credited for writing the first Greek cheesecake recipe in 230 A.D. By this time, the Greeks had been serving cheesecake for over 2,000 years but this is the oldest known surviving Greek recipe. It was pretty basic: pound the cheese until it is smooth and pasty, mix the pounded cheese in a brass pan with honey and spring wheat flour, heat the cheesecake “in one mass”, allow to cool, then serve.

Romans Adapted the Recipe

When the Romans conquered Greece, the cheesecake recipe was just another spoil of war. They modified it including crushed cheese and eggs. These ingredients were baked under a hot brick and it was served warm. Occasionally, the Romans would put a cheese filling in a pastry. The Romans called the cheesecake “librimar” and they served it on special occasions. Marcus Cato, a Roman politician in the first century B.C. is credited as recording the oldest known Roman cheesecake recipe.

As the Romans expanded their empire, they brought cheesecake recipes to the Europeans. Great Britain and Eastern Europe began experimenting with ways to put their own twist on cheesecake. In each country of Europe, the recipe started taking on different cultural shapes, using ingredients native to each region.

The First Published Cookbook Included a Cheesecake Recipe

Henry VIII commissioned the publication of the first ever cookbook in 1545. It’s no surprise that when it came to deciding which dishes would be included he chose his favorite cheesecake recipe.

His version instructed the baker to soak the cheese in milk for up to three hours before straining the mixture and combining it with eggs, butter, and sugar. Once blended the mixture was ladled into a pastry shell and baked till golden brown. Once the cake was cooled, it was ready to eat.

It was not until the 18th century, however, that cheesecake would start to look like something we recognize in the United States today. Around this time, Europeans began to use beaten eggs instead of yeast to make their breads and cakes rise. Removing the overpowering yeast flavor made cheesecake taste more like a dessert treat. When Europeans immigrated to America, many brought  their cheesecake recipes along.

Adding a Signature Ingredient

When Americans think of cheesecake now, it’s most associated with a product that has a cream cheese base. Cream cheese was invented in 1872 by American dairyman William Lawrence of Chester, New York, who accidentally stumbled on a method trying to reproduce a French cheese called Neufchatel.

In 1880, Lawrence began distributing his cream cheese in foil wrappers under the auspices of the Empire Cheese Company of South Edmeston, New York, where he manufactured the product. However, you might know it better by the more famous name Lawrence came up with for his “not Neufchatel” Philadelphia Brand Cream Cheese. Why? At the time, Philadelphia and its surrounding area had a reputation for high quality dairy farms and creamier cheese products, so he decided to use the name “Philadelphia” on the foil-wrapped blocks of his cream cheese. The Philadelphia Brand Cheese was purchased in 1903 by the Phoenix Cheese Company and then it was purchased in 1928 by the Kraft Cheese Company. Kraft continues to make this very same delicious Philadelphia Cream Cheese that we are all familiar with today.

However, the majority of Americans maintained their preference for cheesecakes made with curd cheese (following recipes brought by their ancestors from Europe). In the 1930s, cream cheese varieties surged in popularity, especially in New York. The addition of stabilizers by Kraft in the late 1920s was crucial to popularizing the use of cream cheese in cakes; without them the cheese tended to break up during baking leading to a grainy texture.

The Rise of the New York Style Cheesecake

No story about cheesecake can be complete without delving into the origins of the New York style cheesecake. The Classic New York is characterized by its dense and creamy texture, achieved by using cream cheese as the main ingredient. The addition of egg yolks, sugar, and vanilla further enriched the flavor and consistency New Yorkers fell in love with.

Many New Yorkers have vied for bragging rights as to the original recipe, but Arnold Rueben is generally credited for creating the New York Style Cheesecake. Reuben was born in Germany and he came to America when he was young.

Legend has it that Reuben (he also claimed to have created the famous Reuben sandwich), after sampling a cheese pie in 1929 at a dinner party acquired the recipe from the hostess. He then tweaked the ingredients, substituting cream cheese for curds. When Reubens served his innovative dessert to his high profile clients in his restaurants in the 1930s, it became an instant success.

New York Style Cheesecake Was Immortalized in Guys and Dolls

Leo “Lindy” Lindeman, along with his wife Clara, opened a deli called Lindy’s Restaurant in Manhattan’s Theater District in 1921. Lindy’s became famous for its creamy cheesecake topped with strawberries in a gel. While there were rumors that Lindy acquired the secret recipe from Reuben’s baker, the cakes were not exactly identical in as much as it featured cream cheese but also contained heavy cream and was baked in a cookie dough crust.

The famous author and journalist Damon Runyan frequented Lindy’s and featured it in his stories as “Mindy’s”. In 1950, Lindy’s cheesecake was immortalized in the musical Guys and Dolls where Nathan Detroit tried to entice Sky Masterson to wager on whether Mindy’s sold more cheesecake or apple strudel.

Junior’s – A New York Institution

Junior’s Cheesecake is a renowned dessert emporium with its original location in Brooklyn (still operating) and many other locations including Times Square and Forwood Resorts.

In 1950, Henry Rosen, an immigrant from Eastern Europe, opened the first Junior’s restaurant in Brooklyn’s Flatbush neighborhood. The restaurant, named after his two sons Walter and Marvin (nicknamed “Junior”), quickly gained popularity for its delicious cheesecakes…which became its signature dish.

Over the years, Junior’s Cheesecake grew in popularity, and became a beloved destination for locals and visitors alike. Its reputation for high quality cheesecakes and other comfort foods helped it endure as an iconic New York City institution.

The Cultural Significance of Cheesecake in New York

Cheesecake has become more than just a dessert in New York City: it is a cultural symbol and a part of the city’s identity. From the bustling bakers and restaurants that serve it, to the food festivals and events that celebrate it, cheesecake is a prized and iconic part of the city’s culinary scene.

More Variations in America

New York, though probably the most well-known, is not the only place in America that puts its own spin on cheesecakes. In Chicago, sour cream is added to the recipe to keep it creamy and tangy. Meanwhile, Philadelphia cheesecake is known for being lighter and creamier than New York and it can be served with fruit or chocolate topping. In St. Louis, they enjoy a gooey butter cake, which has an additional layer of cake topping the cheesecake filling.

Cheesecake Around the World

Italian Style Cheesecake

Italian cheesecake often uses ricotta cheese as the main ingredient, resulting in a lighter and fluffier texture compared to other cheesecakes. It may also contain citrus zest or liqueur for flavoring.

French Style Cheesecake

Also known as a no-bake cheesecake, the French style cheesecake is made without eggs and is set using gelatin or another thickening agent. It tends to have a lighter and smoother texture.

Japanese Style Cheesecake

Japanese cheesecake, also known as cotton cheesecake, is characterized by its fluffy and light texture. It’s a combination of cream cheese, eggs, and whipped egg whites to achieve its airy consistency.

German Style Cheesecake

This style cheesecake involves separating the eggs and folding whipped egg whites into the batter, which results in a lighter fluffy texture compared to American cheesecakes. Quark is the basic cheese, which is similar to whole milk ricotta.

Polish Style Cheesecake

This is the most versatile of the group because there are no fixed parameters: it can be crustless, have a bottom crust, or a bottom and top crust…anything goes. The cheese of choice is a Polish cow’s milk cheese similar to ricotta, or farmer’s cheese. It is typically mixed with eggs, sugar, butter, some thickener, and traditionally raisins.

Thank You for Being a Friend

Perhaps more interesting than the numerous variations is the infusion of cheesecake into pop culture. It’s made appearances in beloved television sitcoms like Friends and Golden Girls. In the latter, Blanche, Sophia, Dorothy, and Rose sat down at the kitchen table and pulled out a cheesecake in over 100 episodes in its seven-year run.

Cheesecake Today

No matter how you slice it, cheesecake is truly a dessert that has stood the test of time. From ancient Greece to modern kitchens, the evolution of cheesecake reflects the ingenuity and creativity of generations of bakers and cooks. This beloved dessert continues to captivate taste buds and celebrates the timeless combination of creamy cheese, sweetness, and culinary artistry.